New Patek Philippe Models: Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe is revisiting the collection known for its modern, sporty chic – and launching a new travel watch for women.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Building on more than fifteen years’ success, Patek Philippe is presenting a new development in the design of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce, namely a larger diameter (38.8 mm) and a new integrated strap in a composite material. This model of casual chic is available in steel or in rose gold with a choice of dial colors and coordinated straps. Also making its debut in the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce line is a completely new travel watch, as elegant as it is practical, powered by a quartz Travel Time movement. The Aquanaut models for men, meanwhile, are enriched by the arrival of the first white-gold version of the Aquanaut Chronograph, with a color scheme of midnight blue or khaki green.

In 1976, Patek Philippe defined its own vision of casual elegance by launching the famous Nautilus. And having done so well, it did not stop there. In 1997, it reaffirmed its ability to innovate by unveiling another high-end sporty watch, the Aquanaut, this too destined to become a cult model.

With its modern, unexpected design and a character all its own, the Aquanaut created a sensation. And it remains every inch as daring today. The case and the rounded octagonal bezel, both inspired by the Nautilus, stand out by their instantly recognizable shapes and alternation of polished and satin-brushed finishes. The dial and strap in matching colors, embellished with an embossed checkerboard pattern, lend an original, dynamic touch.

The strap is a feature in its own right. It is a made of a high-tech water-resistant composite material that is supple, comfortable and pleasant to touch and noted for its extreme resistance to traction, wear, salt water and ultraviolet radiation. In short, it was made to partner the most active lifestyles.

The first Aquanaut was in steel with a black dial and strap. It was sought after by connoisseurs favoring a refined but relaxed approach to life. This atypical model also enabled a new, younger clientele to enter the rarefied world of Patek Philippe.

For women wishing to combine modern sporty chic with a touch of sparkle, Patek Philippe created a special version of the Aquanaut, lit by a circle of diamonds on the bezel and named Aquanaut Luce (“light” in Italian). This timepiece first appeared on the Italian and Spanish markets in 2004 and then on all five continents in 2005. Since then, the Aquanaut Luce has offered a choice of steel case with a quartz movement or rose gold with a self-winding movement, with dials and matching straps in a variety of colors. It is also available in an Haute Joaillerie version combining the most sophisticated gem-setting techniques and another highly refined model, featuring a bezel set with baguette diamonds and a dial in lacquered, engraved mother-of-pearl presenting a subtle checkerboard effect.

Over the years, the men’s Aquanaut collection has also increased in variety, so as to cater to every taste. In 2007, to mark the Aquanaut’s tenth anniversary, Patek Philippe revised the basic model by reworking the relief pattern on the dial and strap for greater impact and fitting a new integrated strap that follows the curvature of the case between the two lugs. Powered by the caliber 324 S C self-winding movement, this Aquanaut Reference 5167 (40.8 mm in diameter) is now available in steel with a black dial and strap (5167A-001) and in rose gold with a brown dial and strap (5167R-001). It also comes in steel with a steel bracelet (51671A-001) and in a white-gold large-format model (42.2 mm in diameter) with a dial and strap in midnight blue (5168G-001) or khaki green (5168G-010).

Since 2011 Patek Philippe has also offered the men’s Aquanaut in a model featuring its exclusive Travel Time mechanism, notable for the ease of use of its dual-time-zone function and its date indicator linked to local time. Powered by the caliber 324 S C FUS self-winding movement, this Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164 is available in steel with a black dial and strap (5164A-001) and in rose gold with a brown dial and strap (5164R-001). In 2018, the collection launched its first chronograph (Reference 5968) with a version in steel.

The very embodiment of modern Patek Philippe style, the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce combine seriously sporty performance (robust construction, water-resistance to 120 m for most models, legibility and ergonomic design) with the classic attributes of the manufacture’s timepieces: unparalleled quality, accuracy and reliability together with devotion to fine workmanship at every stage of production and finish.


For fifteen years, the Aquanaut Luce has enjoyed outstanding success with women, who delight in its unique style and the elegance that it brings to every occasion. It has become a cult watch and Patek Philippe is now adding to its allure. It is revisiting the original design of 2004 in a new generation of quartz-powered models in steel and a self-winding model in rose gold that together will take over from the previous models. The manufacture is also introducing the first additional function to join the Aquanaut Luce collection: the Travel Time dual time zone.

The Aquanaut Luce quartz in steel, Reference 5267/200A: a larger case with a new integrated strap in black, white or khaki green

Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Since its launch in 2004, the ladies’ quartz-driven Aquanaut Luce in steel Reference 5067 has appeared in a range of colors (including black, safari brown, pearly white and blue-gray). Patek Philippe is giving fresh allure to this flagship model of modern sporty chic by endowing it with an enlarged diameter of 38.8 mm (previously 35.6 mm) and an integrated strap whose contours follow the curvature of the case and the lugs. From now on a new, larger case and an integrated strap will equip every Aquanaut Luce (except the Haute Joaillerie models).

The dials are remarkable for their blend of sportiness and refinement. Their embossed Aquanaut decoration throws into relief the white-gold applied Arabic numerals and the large white-gold baton-style hands with their luminescent coating. On the model with a matt-white dial (5267/200A-010) black numerals and a date printed in white on a black ground in the aperture at 3 o’clock strengthen the legibility.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Patek Philippe, 5268/200R_001_DET

The steel case is adorned with a polished finish on the flat surfaces and a satin-brushed finish on the flanks. Water-resistant to 120 m, notably thanks to its screw-down crown, it houses a Patek Philippe caliber E 23-250 S C quartz movement finished with the same meticulous care as the manufacture’s mechanical movements. The bezel has polished beveled edges and is lit by a circle of 48 round-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct). The integrated strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material features a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce References 5267/200A replace all the previous Reference 5067 models.

Aquanaut Luce automatic Reference 5268/200R-001: a larger diameter and a new integrated matt-white strap

The Aquanaut Luce with a self-winding mechanical movement was launched in 2010 by a rose- gold model with a chocolate brown dial and strap (5068R-001), joined in 2013 by a version in white (5068R-010). Today it affirms its feminine take on sporty chic with a new model measuring 38.8 mm in diameter (up from the previous 35.6 mm) on an integrated strap that continues the visual harmony of the design.

The rose-gold case, water-resistant to 120 m, contrasts the polished finish on its flat surfaces with a satin-brushed finish on the flanks. The emblematic rounded octagonal bezel has a polished beveled edge and sparkles with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct) set with textbook precision.

A dial in matt white with the embossed Aquanaut motif forms a luxurious backdrop to rose-gold applied Arabic numerals and rose-gold baton-style hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating. A slender rose-gilt sweep-seconds hand completes the time display, while the date appears in an aperture at 3 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut

This sporty, elegant timepiece is powered by the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement. Introduced in 2019, this caliber is endowed with a number of technical innovations and optimizations (two of which are patented) relating particularly to the winding system. The presence of a stop-seconds device, which stops the balance when the crown is pulled out, enables the user to set the time to the second. A sapphire-crystal back reveals the movement’s architecture and flawless hand-finish. The watch is worn on an integrated matt-white strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material with a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-001 replaces the two previous 5068 references in the collection.

Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R: a new practical and elegant travel watch for women

Reliable, accurate and dynamic, the Aquanaut Luce is renowned for its special brand of casual chic, an asset on every occasion. To be the perfect travel companion for today’s active, cosmopolitan woman it lacked only the display of a second time zone. That wish has been granted with the new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R.

The new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R has two central hour hands – a skeletonized hand for home time and a solid hand for local time. When its owner changes time zones, the hour hand for local time may be set forwards or backwards by increments of one hour using the crown pulled out to the intermediate position, without this affecting the rate accuracy of the movement. During the time spent abroad, the skeletonized hand will continue to display home time, coupled with the day/night indicator at 6 o’clock – a useful feature when wishing to avoid waking someone from a deep sleep. The Travel Time’s dual-time-zone system can also be used to display the time in another longitude where a loved one is living.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Patek Philippe, 5268/200R_001_DET

The rose-gold 38.8 mm case, equipped with a non-screw-down crown (to make using the Travel Time function practical and unobtrusive) is water-resistant to 60 m. Its contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes complement a matt-white dial and a matching strap. The Aquanaut Luce’s chic, sporty personality gains extra sparkle from a bezel edged with a polished bevel and set with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct). The dial presents an embossed Aquanaut motif beneath rose-gold applied numerals and rose-gold baton-style hands, the solid hands with a luminescent coating. The integrated white composite-material strap has a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

The new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R complements the existing Patek Philippe travel watches for women, which comprise four models: the World Time Reference 7130 with 24 time zones, available in white gold or rose gold, and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Reference 7234, also in white gold or rose gold, whose design pays tribute to classic aeronautical style.


The rich collection of Aquanaut models for men ranges from simple models in steel, rose gold or white gold to those equipped with complications that are useful in everyday life. This year it has acquired a new version of the Aquanaut Chronograph. A new take on sporty elegance for the modern man.

Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968G: the first version in white gold, paired with midnight blue or khaki green

In 2018, Patek Philippe launched the first chronograph to join the men’s Aquanaut collection – a complication ideally suited to this line’s dynamic sporting spirit. Reference 5968 made its debut in a steel model with a black dial mounted on a black strap in a composite material and delivered with a second composite strap in orange (5968A-001).

Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Patek Philippe, 5268/200R_001_DET

Now, the manufacture is introducing the first white-gold version of the Aquanaut Chronograph, with either of two colorways for the dial and matching strap: an elegant midnight blue shading to black on the dial (5968G-001) or an audacious khaki green (5968G-010).

A key aesthetic feature is the harmonious integration of the chronograph into the Aquanaut design. The interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces on the case, bezel and pushers contributes to the effect. The 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock echoes the bezel’s rounded octagonal shape. The elongated pushers are positioned at 2 and 4 o’clock, either side of the screw-down crown. The chronograph indications (sweep seconds, quarter-second scale, 60- minute counter) stand out in white on the embossed Aquanaut pattern. Legibility is ensured by white-gold applied numerals and large white-gold baton-style hands with a luminescent coating.

This model is equipped with the caliber CH 28-520 C self-winding flyback chronograph movement uniting tradition (column-wheel control) and innovation (vertical disk clutch). As the clutch is virtually friction-free, the center chronograph hand also functions as a permanent seconds hand. The flyback function allows the user to begin timing a new event while the chronograph is still running, with a simple pressure on the push-piece at 4 o’clock.

The case is a handsome 42.2 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 120 m. The integrated strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material is fitted with a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. These two new models join Reference 5968A-001 in steel in the collection.

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